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Manila Airport, December 13, 2013 It’s Friday the 13th and it’s my last flight of the year. Quite spooky huh? Based on the travel agent’s summary, this is my record flying year with 40 trips to 16 countries and 29 cities. That would mean I’m in a different country every 3 weeks and spend every 2 weeks in a different city. To be quite honest, I am officially tired. Sitting here at Manila airport catching the last flight of the year home, I couldn’t help but looking back in restropect. What have I learned from my travel? Nothing too fancy unfortunately. After hours up in the air and a super lot of idle time to contemplate, I guess I’ve learned to speak the language of the universe. “What the?”, some would say. I know…., but that’s totally cool. Take the top 2 most popular languages on earth, English and Mandarin, and ask me if I have used them the most this year. Definitely! Yet the most meaningful conversations I’ve had around the four corners of the world are shared through smiling eyes, subtle nods, loving hugs, and absolute silence when one’s heart whispers to another’s words of sympathy, understanding, and compassion. How can one put a name to such a language? The universe is nameless…. If we have to put up a name for the sheer purpose of recognition, I would name it “language of the universe”. Pretty lame I know! It’s Friday the 13th, and it’s not that spooky after all. There lives no such concept in the dictionary of the universe…. #subtle #restropect #smilingeyes #happiness #philosophy #perspective #language #hug #love #silence #life #universe

Singapore, December 6, 2013 After a few hard-working days and a long flight from Sydney, Bak Kuh Teh with a good friend on a lane way in Singapore is sheer perfect. Outside it’s drizzling. Inside it’s steaming & peppery. Just a classic! Amidst it all comes the message…. “I’m missing dinner with you tonight. Exactly 12 months ago we had dinner.” “Wow you certainly remember the date.” “Yep” 12 months ago today, we caught up in Sydney before I flew out. I could recall his smiling eyes when he said “I think I’m OK.” Some of us learn to compartmentalize our life experiences as a coping measure. So could he…. And so he had been, locking away ghosts of the by-gone era just to be spooked once in a while, each single time sinking himself in deep depression. For a few years, we had been working this all out, together…. “I think I’m OK.” As simple as that, and it made me cry…. We went on talking about embracing life even further by helping others around us…. It was December The Sixth, one year ago today…. #depression #embrace #happiness #perspective #decemberthesixth #life #experiences #past #compartmentalize

Guangzhou, July 4, 2013 Though probably dead tired after landing in Guangzhou from Sydney at 6AM, our Guangzhou host would not take no for an answer when extending his dinner invitation tonight. Since Guangzhou is super famous for its Cantonese cuisine, it is Cantonese food tonight by no mistake. We walk in leisure to the restaurant which offers no common dining area apart from various themed VIP rooms. Exclusivity by all means is here to service this important trading province of Guangdong. We are first seated at one sofa corner of the room where a tea ceremony is initiated. Being a very health-conscious person, our host orders a herbal tea, supposedly good for the liver, especially when alcohol is about to flow through one’s body. While the tea fragrance fills the room, an expensive bottle of red wine is being decanted at the main table. The bottle is then brought over to the host who passionately shares his tasting notes for this 1000-dollar bottle of 2005 Domaines Barons de Rothschild Chateau Lafite “So you must be a French-wine fan?” I ask. “Definitely!” answers Vincent. “What are your thoughts on Australian and American wines that have made headlines in recent years then?” Without a flash of hesitation, Vincent explains his philosophy about wine, “French wine is like a charming, elegant lady who comes from a noble and educated family heritage while Australian and American wines can be referred to as young, energetic, entertaining ladies who can be a lot of fun but won’tbe able to walk a journey with you.” What a description! Though i am not sure if he has actually been sold the concept at one of the roadshows promoted by the Wine Association of France. The host then apologizes that he could not make us wait for an hour while our Lafite needs to breathe, and unfortunately that we have to start dinner sooner, knowing we need to rest early after a hard-working day. Without any prejudice on the 1000-dollar tag, Lafite tastes perfect to me, distinctively flowery though I am supposed to pick up flower, oak, fruit, and orange, all in all a very sophisticated combination. Pairing with fine Cantonese dishes of five-spiced tofu, Cantonese roast pork, roasted baby duck, pan-fried estuary fish, and an unusual Western cousin lobster thermidor on a bed of Chinese noodle, the dinner ends on a fine note with snowy custard dumpling for dessert. As we walk back to the hotel that night, I can, for the first time in my life, feel the expensive gap between the social classes in China. One country, same city, yet it is heaven and hell intertwining in this rough city of Guangzhou. #sophistication #lafite #perspective #cantonese #guangdong #life #france #wine #Guangzhou

Guangzhou, July 4, 2013 Guangzhou has never been my city of choice due to previous bad experiences. If there is one thing I love about this city, it is the magnificent Cantonese cuisine setting out to capture even the most critical foodie. The variety of offerings is amazing and the tatses are just heavenly. With that in mind, I return to Guangzhou, hoping to get quickly through the days with frozen-faced business meetings and a few great meals as a bonus. Loud, noisy, rude, and always on-the-go are the things stuck in my mind after my last Guangzhou visit about the people here. Why does one have to shout across a one-meter distance just to deliver a simple message such as “It’s boarding time”? That I could never comprehend. But then again, it may simply be an ingrained habit that one grows up with in this short-breathed city. Well-prepared for a typical buzzing Guangzhou day ahead, I calmly step into Mr. Li’s office. Taken aback by the zen-filled posture and attitude of the host, I do start wondering if I am in the wrong Guangzhou. The office is well-arranged with trees, flowers, a beautiful Chinese ink-washed painting and a nice calligraphy piece. I once thought ink-washed painting and calligraphy were dying in this motherland of such historical arts. Underneath the table, there is a beautifully-carved wooden box of weiqi, the ancient game of Chinese chess on warfare, which one can only come across in Chinese movies about ancient dynasties. A humble wooden tea table sits quiety at one corner, looking all set for a tea ceremony. The whole setting together with its host brings about the nostalgic & much-appreciated Greatness of Chinese heritage values, ones that can hardly be found in today’s material world. If one has to fight to get a better graveyard spot, who cares about Greatness in the kingdom of humanitarian values? Time flies when one enjoys the company. What an unusually calm and peaceful day it is in this buzzing city of trade! Though one rare encounter may not change one’s perception about the whole place, it certainly helps project soothing thoughts on future returns…. #weiqi #calligraphy #inkwashedpainting #teaceremony #zen #travel #perspective #guangdong #arts #life #Guangzhou

Casa, June 20, 2013 It’s our last day today. The three friendly Tunisians are heading home tomorrow while I am staying over another day to explore Casablanca. Voilà! It’s been 5 days on the road. The once strangers have become good friends. Isn’t it that amazing how we are all connected while living in totally different parts of the world! French cuisine it is. To Tunisians and Moroccans, French is wired in their system and French cuisine obviously is the preferred choice for any celebration. That explains why all the haute couture bakery cafes in Casa have been thriving among the upcoming middle class in this fast-paced country. That’s where we have our farewell dinner, Le Relais de Paris. French offerings with a refined touch, rough Moroccan wine with some personality, the once strangers toast to friendship. The night evolves around world arts, music, movies, philosophy, which to my Tunisian friends pretty unusual topics. These days, people tend to discuss opportunities, real estate, hot destinations, and cool fashion. It certainly does not stop there! As the night deepens into the murmurs of the Atlantic ocean, a hot debate is brought out into the open. “What is the purpose of life?” Different religions, different views. Different backgrounds, different views. Different age groups, different views. Yet we end the night on a beautiful note. We may travel to life’s different destinations. We do, however, share the same journey, a journey from the hearts…. #philosophy #beautifulnote #music #friends #perspectives #arts #life #lifepurpose #strangers #Casablanca

City of Carthage, June 18, 2013 It’s not everyday that one gets to see a UNESCO World Heritage such as The Roman Ruins in Carthage. I know I’ve spent 17 hours in 3 different airports to get here. What do you know? The people in Tunis are living with the ruins every day of their life. It’s on the way to work in Les Berges du Lac. It’s on the way home to Manouba. It’s on the way to their favorite wine bars in Sidi Bou Said. It’s in your neighborhood. What’s new? It’s in your own backyard in the city of Carthage. New rulers tend to destroy the formers’ legends. That’s OK. The people of Tunisia continue to build their future on top of the ruins. Life goes on. History is not only alive in their heads. It’s physically alive in their homes! “We are not Arabs. We are not African. We are simply Tunisian. And we are lost.” That seems to be the common concept of identity in this country. After all people here speak their own dialect, French arabic, that is not understood by any other Middle Eastern arabs, and a whole lot of other languages – French, Spanish, Italian…. So what’s next? Will the revolution of 2010/2011 helps define the identity of this country and its hospitable people? No one knows. Tunisia is on hold waiting for the next election which needs to be figured out in a country where dictatorship has kept it under control until someone set himself on fire. “We have to work out how to run an election first” says a Tunisian friend of mine. Until then, life is still thriving along the coastline, the upcoming European-lifestyle suburbs of Tunis. One thing for sure, history will continue to have its share in the backyards of this amazingly beautiful country. #carthage #sidibousaid #tunis #romanruins #Tunisia #Unesco #lesbergesdulac

Casablanca, June 21, 2013 It’s on the water. It’s the landmark of this town. It’s a cannot-miss-it for anyone coming to Casablanca. Hassan II Mosque, the pride of Casablanca, the pride of Morocco. 100 dirhams to get in and you get a tourguide in your language of choice. My Arabic is zero. My Spanish is yet to be learned in the next lifetime. My French is at street level. English sounds good. Groups and groups of people flock into the mosque, eager to admire the much-talked about legend of this architectural landmark by the Atlantic ocean. No one wants English today, so I get a private tour. Shoes in the plastic bag, I walk in to the late King’s vision for the future that took the contribution of 10,000 artists and craftsmen, and obviously thousands of workers to build. Grandiose is the word. The whole mosque appears before one’s eyes like a royal castle in any of the 1001-Arabian-nights folk tales. The best of Moroccan decor and art have found their home here in Grande Mosquée Hassan II. What can one say? For a moment there, it’s getting personal. It’s me and the monument. I drop the tourguide and seat myself down at a quiet corner. Space and time is irrelevant. My tiny self is insignificant. I can feel the energy of 25,000 people being here today, all heading East, all in sync in their prayers for a better world. It happens every Ramadan and it’s happening soon this July. A few pigeons flap past. Grey shadows gently touch the hand-crafted white marble floor. I look up. The sky is blue. Isn’t that mad? You can open up the roof of this massive mosque! Reality suddenly churns in. People are still struggling to makes ends meet out there. Beggars are on the streets. How can one justify the estimated US$800 million spent on such a project? How does one justify the 56 Venecian Chandeliers and a luxurious hammam underneath that’s never been used? Grandeur will forever be admired. The King will forever be remembered. My heart-felt moment for the people of Morocco will forever stay forgotten. #HassanII #grandiose #casa #morroco #grandeur #Casablanca #mosque

Casablanca, June 21, 2013 It’s 12:30 when we reach the ancient medina in Casablanca. Morroco always comes across as a much-talked about tourist destination, and so I do come with some sort of expectation. I’ve learned over the years not to expect, instead staying open to welcome whatever coming your way. One tends to enjoy life journey a lot more that way. Yet I’ve made the same mistake on this trip, getting all soaked up in expectation after seeing the impressive medina in Tunis where passion for art and culture has started to flow back into the community, leading to magnificent preservation work for the area. As the car approaches the medina, the overall scene does not paint a very comfortable picture; garbage-filled walkways, run-down dirty street cafes with miserable looking people sitting around, messy street vendors…. Don’t get me wrong! I love the disorder and the mess in developing countries, but – there’s always a “but”, it has to come with the bursting positive energy of the place, almost like you know what needs to be done yet you are in such a rush and haven’t got a chance to get down to it. At Casa’s medina, time seems to pass it by. It feels like the shameful past that one never wants to touch on, tugging it under the pillows to feed shattering nightmares. Like a once-admired Mediterranean beauty now getting shut behind forgotten doors, Medina is lying pale in bed, bidding her last farewell. One can hear her faint sobber in the wind. One can feel her last drops of lonely tears drying off. Frozen faces, snowy hearts, people walk by…. Life is on hold! Hundreds of Moroccans sit around waiting for their next praying session at the yellow mosque. Is there one who will walk with Medina on her last journey to the unknown? #medina #morocco #architecture #casa #perspective #journey #life #Casablanca #mosque

Tunis, June 19, 2013 8:30AM Youssef picked me up from El Mouradi Africa hotel heading towards La Médina, the ancient town built by the Turks during their reign in Tunisia. Sitting right in the city center of Tunis, La Médina is still the administrative center of the city and a must-see tourist attraction. We enter from what I was told the Sea Gate for boats in ancient time. It is now the main entrance coming from the main avenue in Tunis, Habib Bourguiba, named after the first president of The Republic of Tunisia. As I am eager passing the gate heading into the hustle bustle souk, a policeman comes out from nowhere and stops us. Oh dear! Can’t recall I’ve done anything out of the norms apart from the fact that I am the only Asian girl in this exotic Mediterranean town. The policeman obviously asks Youssef a few questions in Arabic and Youssef seems to try and explain hard. I only learn later that he’s been asked about his residence, his job, and definitely why he is here with a foreigner. “It’s got nothing to do with you”, explains Youssef. “After the revolution in 2010-2011, security is tightened and the police does random check for the safety of foreigners.” Fair enough! At least it’s a release that I’m not in trouble. But then again, inchallah! As arabic people put it, “Leave it with God!” and hopefully you’re in good hands. Today is my lucky day and I get to see La Médina as an insider. Khaled, one of the major architects responsible for preserving the medina, is meeting us for coffee before showing us some of his work. As we wait for Khaled to make his appearance, Youssef and I settle at a corner cafe in the souk for Turkish coffee and “thé de bondok”, a traditional Tunisian mint tea served sweet with pinenuts on top. Religious music plays loud in the background. Shisha smoke fills the air. An artist- looking guy quietly sips his tea, all eyes on the morning paper. Khaled finally arrives. He must know the medina like the back of his hands. He navigates through the medina maze at ease, stopping at times to say hello to the residents of this recently-planned to become the cultural and artictic district for the city of Tunis. One after another, he shows me a school, a museum, a boutique hotel, a community center, an art gallery, and even his own home. My jaws drop. There’s a reason why all the ancient houses carry narrow entrances and tiny windows. They don’t want to be seen. They don’t want attention, not like the modern bigger, better showing off of today’s era. But once you are inside, you’re in a totally different world where people live and breathe art. The artisanal hand-carving decor, the magnificently painted ceramics, the twisted walkways, the surprising outdoor centered garden…, I am totally lost! I would never want to walk back out if I don’t have to. Every good thing comes to an end. We bid adieu as Khaked asks me when he would see me again. Inchallah! Leave it with God though I know I would somehow find my way back, just to sit down with history in its most artistic form. #tunis #culture #Tunisia #History #lamedina #arts #inchallah #souk

Tunis, June 18, 2013 For a country that has been living with the ruins and the left-behind evidence of past colonization from the the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Turks, the French…, it is now stepping on full gear heading straight towards the future. The old city stays totally run-down, tired, and dirty while new business districts and suburbs are coming up at light-year speed. Outside of downtown Tunis, one can spot one under-construction project probably every few hundred meters. At one point I start wondering if all the cranes in Dubai have been relocated to Tunisia. Big, small, office buildings, apartment blocks, commercial properties, lifestyle complexes, schools, hospitals…, and what have you. Tunisia is on the go. People are on the go. There is not enough hours in a day to seize opportunities. Just like other emerging economies, the country is ready to go from nothing to everything. And the clock is ticking. People are counting down to the Voilà moment. Rumours are in the air about new comers. As Tunisians look up to Turkey as their future, one can smell the future cooking on the dusty streets of Tunis where construction sands fill up one’s eyes. “So who are behind these developments?” I ask my local friend, Youssef. “The locals of course” replies Youssef, “and they have no idea.” As the country leads its fast-paced life, everything changes on a daily basis. One day you are on the main road; the next day you’re out. One day you are at the entrance; the next day you’re out. One day you’ve got the best spot; the next day you’re out. And it’s common. And people accept it. Crazy but c’mon, life goes on and who cares what was there yesterday? “So what does success mean to the people of this city?” I ask Youssef. “Be known and be rich” is the answer. Why am I not surprised? The last drops of sunset gently touch the crystal blue Mediterranean sea as champagne and rosé flow freely at La Falais, a must-see-and-be-seen spot in Tunis. The water stays silent, knowing it takes Tunisia a long while to slow down and enjoy the sunset. #success #opportunities #tunis #ruins #rich #Tunisia #perspective #famous #life #sunset #slowdown

Tunis, June 16, 2013 Nothing beats the feeling of having arrived at the hotel after a long flight, a warm bath, a comfy bed, soft pillows, and an un-disturbed afternoon nap…. Well, all that for a day dream! The receptionist could not find my booking. With enough confidence I take out my Ipad and show him the confirmation email in my inbox. The guy looks perplexed. I can see the frown on his face. Then he looks up with the broadest smile ever. “I am sorry, miss. You’ve booked in for July and not June.” Oh dear, for all the mistakes I’ve ever made in life, why this when I am totally bruised after such a long trip? “Silly me!”, say I. “You have rooms available though?”. With smiling eyes, the guy calmly responds “Unfortunately not. We are fully booked until the 23rd.” There goes my warm bath! I reach for my phone. Battery is at 9% to death. I quickly call Farida, and ask if she could help organize another hotel for me. Farida laughs as hard as ever listening to my little incident, and says she would check a few hotels in town. 5 minutes later, the message comes in. “I will pick you up in 15. The Novotel has rooms available.” Oh well, if I can survive a 17-hour trip, 15 minutes does not sound too bad. “You save my life, Farida!”…. But my phone is dead and I need an adaptor. I hit the bar of the Sheraton and ask the bartender for help. The guys seems enlightened to be asked for help and after taking me to on a hotel tour around the various departments to look for an adaptor, we finally land at the business center where the lady is more than happy to lend us one. We walk back to the bar and have my phone charged at the counter. Meher his name is and he is a local Tunisian. Meher seems to have a lot of fun on his job as a cashier at this lobby bar. I am surprised to see a few guests stop by to give him a warm hello as he gets me a glass of water without me having to ask for it. As I concentrate on my deep breath to bring my body and mind back to balance, a guy walks up to the counter and asks for a beer. He looks Middle Eastern. The beer is quickly poured into a hi-ball glass. The guy pays for it, leaves some tip, and within 30 seconds gobbles down his beer. “Wow, he must be super thirsty” I think to myself. Meher laughs as he sees the look on my face. “That’s the Arabic way of drinking beer” explains Meher, “All in one shot.” Now I need a drink! But with my present condition of exhaustion, I wouldn’t dare to take that shot. And so I ask for a Campari and lemonade just to quench my thirst. While Meher is busy punching my order into the POS, a dark guy comes out from behind the bar and starts mixing my drink. “His name is Sofienne” Meher introduces his colleague. “His Mom is Jamaican and his Dad is Tunisian. He is a dark chocolate.” Sofienne does not seem to be bothered with Meher’s joke on his dark complexion. With the most contented smile he adds “Not just a chocolate. I am a hot chocolate!” My heart melts to see such enlightening attitudes at work. I wonder how many people could appear so content and happy going through their normal work days…. Random kindness, an enlightening attitude and a few light-hearted words can help make someone’s day. It certainly washes away my exhaustion and sends me off in a sunny mood in search for that warm bath and comfy bed in a strange city that has taken me in as one of its own…. #randomkindness #tunis #happiness #Tunisia #attitude #perspective #content #life #lighthearted #enlightening

Aéroport Tunis Carthage, June 15, 2013 As we are we touch down on Tunis airport, houses of white and blue spreading on a bed of bare, dessert-looking field spark the feeling of an unusual yet exciting journey ahead. The overall mood is that of another in-between country, struggling to link the rich & colorful past with the light-year speed into the future. Tunis airport is a tiny, old and run-down airport. Blue by no surprise is the overall color tone of the place. “VISA” so it says with an arrow pointing left on the signboard. That’s obviously where I am heading. Visa on arrival is always an interesting experience wherever one goes. Anything can go wrong at an airport and I am well-prepared to welcome any of such incidents though it would be a tough job to justify 11 hours of flying and 6 hours of waiting in transit just to arrive at this smallest country in North Africa. OK Tunisia, here I come! There’s no queue at the visa counter. That’s kinda unusual for a country offering visa on arrival. Wherever else I’ve been, long queues are the common sight at visa counters. Well, at least there is a visa counter. Always look on the bright side of life! A middle-aged, overly made-up lady sits quietly behind the counter as I approach. “I need a visa, please!” I open the conversation. “What country?” asks she without even looking at me, nor my passport. “Australia” I reply “How many days?” she asks “3 days” I reply “100” she says “Can I pay in USD or credit card?” I continue as I obviously have no Tunisian dollars on me. “No”, says the lady in a harsh cold voice. “Where can I change money then?” That seems like a logical question I guess. The lady says nothing, gets ahold of my passport, takes out a small stamp and a scrap piece of paper, stamps on it, writes the word “USD” underneath the stamp and gives it to me. “After the counter” she says, “and come back here to pick up your passport”. I look around. The only counters are the customs counters. Well, you can’t miss it. And so I line up at the customs counter in search for my money changer! Well, at least I know for sure that I can get a visa. Anything else should be trivial. As I stand in line, a Chinese guy behind starts a conversation and asks me why I am in Tunis. I obviously un-mistakenly look Chinese. When I tell him I am here for meetings with some partners in the coffee business, he immediately responds “You must sell cheap coffee!” I look at him, smiling. Africa and cheap, the guy seems to know how to join the dots huh? In return, he tells me he is here to look around for opportunities. We never have time to finish a conversation but I am sure he’s got some low-cost projects hanging in the air. It’s my turn and I approach the customs counter, confidently placing the scrap piece of paper on the counter. “I was told to get out and change money for my visa”, I say. The customs lady gives no look at myself, nor my scrap evidence of authority, yet nods her head. That’s it? Wow, that’s easier than I thought! As I put my carry bag through the security scanner, a few security staff is busy chatting, laughing happily as the conversation goes. One guy looks up as I pass the gate, gives me a huge smile and asks “USD?”. I return him with an equivalent huge smile and reply “yeah”. Hmmm, this USD business seems like a common thing here after all. There is a money changer on the left as I walk out to the baggage area. Unfortunately, the sign in front says “Closed”. What now? “This is getting kinda messy” I think to myself. Such time calls for patience. I smile and try to keep calm as I approach a security guard to ask for help. To my surprise, he smiles and points out to the exit door. “You can find many outside”, he says. This is cool! This is the first time I ever get out into a country without a passport. There’s always a first in anything you encounter on a life journey. It can be fun or it can be super annoying, depending on your attitude I guess. As I walk out to the waiting area, eyes of curiosity are on this Asian girl with a small carry bag, happily walking out in leisure, ready to take on anything waiting ahead. Like any other airport, people sit, stand, wait, and hurry around. Judging by the look, most of them are either from the Middle East or neighboring African countries. “Money first”, I remind myself of my mission as I easily get distracted by the foundational interest in observing the world around. There are about 6 money changers in front of the exit and my God!, they are all placed with long queues. Wow, this seems like a thriving business in Tunis. It takes almost half an hour in line just to get the money changed. The only thing that keeps me entertained while waiting is an old, black African Muslim guy sitting at the opposite coffee shop, looking all quiet, miserable, patiently waiting by his coffee. He does not seem to move much. For an instance, he reminds me of the lady who turns into a rock statue waiting for her never-returning husband from the war in a Vietnamese legend. As he patiently waits, I get my money changed and walks back in. I find it amusing making that re-winding trip back to the visa counter. Who gets to enter a country twice in one go? The lady gets her TND100 and I get my visa and passport back. Fair trade! “Don’t forget to check in at customs!” she reminds me. How’s that for a reminder? If I can get past customs without a passport, I certainly can get past it once again with one I guess. What an experience! The first encounter certainly paints an overall mood of a laid-back, easy-going, developing country where money and opportunities seem to set the scene. Palm trees & white, tiny-windowed houses welcome me on a sunny day as I leave the airport on this exciting journey to learn more about the history and people of Tunisia…. #carthage #northafrica #tunis #visa #Tunisia #attitude #passport #airport #life