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Macao, May 29, 2013 Though Macao casinos never get me remotely excited, I am super content to catch up with an old Hongkong friend who has been working in Macau for the last 10 years. Having told him about the Venetian maze and my inability to navigate, he asks me to wait for him at the main lobby which is supposed to be the easiest place to find in this confusing complex. 6:30pm I make my way towards the direction of the main lobby. At least that’s where the arrow points. Not for long do I find myself lost in a casino with frozen-faced dealers, tense & tired looking gamblers, and idle & lost looking shadows of opportunists waiting around for the next bingo. After all, it is the City of Dreams for some…. No one looks at anyone. No one talks to anyone. All eyes are on the bets. I finally make it through the must-pass institution of dreams and make it to the other side of darkness, though it never leaves me. Faces of despair, anxiety, loss, and anger sadden my heart as I walk out to a Renaissance walk-way of painted walls and ceilings. My friend, Paul takes me to one of the so-called finest Japanese restaurant at the Grand Lisboa. Portugese, he says, seems a bit heavy for a small-eater like myself even though it is considered local food. “Sure” I say. With an old friend by one’s side, any food will do. As we are seated next to a Chinese couple, I couldn’t help but notice the awkward silence between them. The lady keeps taking photos of whatever on the table to share on whichever social networks. The guy is lost. He gives a bored look around just to find nothing entertaining. I certainly never look entertaining enough! And so he reluctantly picks up his phone, keeping himself busy with the smart screen. Neither looks at each other. Not a word uttered. All eyes are on the screen. “Let’s get out of here!” I request. I’d rather be on the streets where I can see life. And out we walk, through the old heritage quarter of Macau. Deja-vu! Amidst the bad tastes of flashing neon lights and glassy modern buildings are gorgeous relics of the blended Portugese and Chinese architectures, the old Portugese school, the elegant post office, the bold administrative building, the breath-taking Ruins of St. Paul cathedral, and my God! the creepy-looking but awe-inspiring red street with ancient Chinese houses, all painted in red! For the first time in Macau, I can feel the city…. The night ends up for us at a 30-year old small and quaint Chinese sweet shop on one of the tiny lane ways for almond and egg white sweet soup. Paul goes on and on about the heritage of Macau. At least we share the same topics. We both love heritage and culture. Paul sends me back to the City of dreams at midnight. The dreams are obviously getting more alive as the night runs out. Thousands of mayflies float around, hoping to be burnt. No one looks. No one talks. All eyes are on the bets. Why are they here on earth? Have they ever thought about a purpose in life? #dream #casino #purpose #perspective #Macao #life #earth

Beijing, July 12, 2013 Leaving the hazy city of Jinan, we board the 7AM flight to Beijing, the notoriously polluted tier 1 city of China. Unlike any other cities, Beijing has been developing at a lightning rate. No where else have I seen the city extending up to 6 ring roads. The norm is 3, though Chengdu has expressed a good sense of humour when developing ring road 2.5. Having heard about the unbearable pollution of Beijing on the news which sees expat families flock out of the city for health reasons, I do walk out into Beijing with some reservations. Well, it is polluted, alright? I could kinda feel it, but coming from Jinan, it seems like a huge improvement to me, so no complaint, really. The only thing that’s bugging me is the heat and the extreme humidity. Oh well, it is July and one cannot change a thing about the weather. The question is “Can one change a habit?” 7PM; at a local BBQ beer garden, a group of 30ish guys sit around with 2 cases of beer under the table; tops off. It must be the weather…. 6PM; Wusi Road; 3 tri-cycle riders sit on the pavement; gobbling down the cold beer; half-naked. It definitely is the weather…. 10AM; Costa Coffee; Oriental Plaza; a 50ish man sitting down sipping his coffee; T-shirt pulled half-way up showing his beer tummy; right hand constantly rubbing the tummy in total satisfaction. It is obviously not the weather…. Have fun staying half-naked, Beijing! #pollution #beergarden #wangfujin #china #naked #perspective #life #beijing #ringroad

Jinan, July 11, 2013 Having met some local Shandong-nese before who are super proud of their Confucius hometown, I can’t help but building some speculation about Shandong on this trip to Jinan, the next key city after Qingdao in Shandong province. We touch down at Jinan airport on schedule, which to me is incredible for China. Obviously the law says that all flights have to complete boarding on time. What a law! The only tiny issue is that you never depart on time. You are made to sit on the plane waiting for take off. No wonder all of my local friends would rather take an inter-provincial train ride. At least you know when you get to the other end. Super excited from the first on-schedule flight, we walk out to Confucius’ hometown…. Jinan seems to be quite indifferent to these strangers. The sky is gloomy & grey. The haze is unbearable. The structures on both sides of the roads are tired and cranky. Apart from the familiar liquor ads, I feel like being pushed aside from the first encounter. On second thought, maybe Jinan needs more time to get to know any strangers. Though pollution is scratching my throat, I decide to take a walk around to learn about this city of mystery. Don’t know whether I should be surprised to see rows of shopping malls, big and small, old and new, local and western looking, lining up along the main road. What can one expect? Shopping seems to be the official hobby one can add to their CVs for sure. Yes it is Shandong, Yes it is Confucius hometown. Yet yes, it is modern China in its heroic making. Hang on, at least I do spot a billboard at a bus-stop with the image of Confucius on it…. Disinterested by another tier 2 Chinese city life, I walk towards the run-down local department buildings on a cross street, keeping myself entertained by the out-of-tune color combination in the way people dress here. The rule is there is no rule. And check out the copy cat brands! They are all shining in massive, well-lit street shops. Tired from the heat, the humidity and the pollution, returning to the hotel sounds like an inspiring thought. Only then do I spot the scene of the day, a happy- go- lucky kiddo doing number 2 on the pavement. Hold on! Daddy is proudly giving him a helping hand, wiping profusely. Mommy? She seems quite relaxed and enjoyed the happy scene. After all, this could make a nice story-board for a toilet paper brand, couldn’t it? Have I got a feel for Jinan? Well, to some extent…. #pollution #shandong #confucius #china #perspective #shopping #jinan #life

Chengdu, July 13, 2013 Though it is not my first time to Chengdu, the local friends refuse to pass an opportunity to take me out for Sichuan hotpot, one of the most popular specialties in this spicy province of China. Obviously the restaurant that we are heading to is even more authentic than the one we’ve tried last time, plus I will be entertained with Sichuan opera. Sounds like a super plan! We pull over next to Wuhou temple and walk into the hustle bustle Jinli Street, said to be one of the busiest trading streets during the Three Kingdoms period, (184-280) in Chinese history. The area has been remodelled to reflect old architecture and has been converted into a tourist destination for sight-seeing, gift shopping, and local food sampling. The Western lunch in the hotel was not that inspiring to my friend, so it’s definitely time for some real food. With the great Sichuan hotpot in mind, we all march through the colorful alleys, heading towards Da Miao hotpot restaurant, where My friend refers to as the authentic place. The restaurant is set up like a bar restaurant in ancient time, with an opera stage as the focus. Tables are placed facing the stage on the ground floor and private rooms are built around on the first floor, leaving open space in the middle so that everyone can stand around appreciating the performances as they please. No space is available on the ground floor, so we book a private room upstairs. The stock comes out immediately as we are seated with choices of spicy and non-spicy divided into 4 small containers in the same hotpot. Without a second wasted, my friend starts preparing my dip with lots of oil, spring onion, garlic, friend Spanish onion, chilli, and peanut. Oh dear, here comes the super oily stock and a bowl of oily sauce. There goes my calorie cap for the day. In no time, plates of raw food line up on the table; cow’s stomach, pig’s liver, pig’s kidhey, duck’s indices, river eel, Sichuan smoked ham…. I struggle a bit through the cholesterol-stuffed dinner though I have to admit the taste is quite pleasantly exotic for a spice lover like myself. How is one going to make up for such an un-healthy meal, however, is still beyond human intelligence. My friend’s wife arrives a little late as she has to drop off her father at the airport that evening. As she approaches the table, her face turns red; eyebrows raised and the index finger makes an akward move towards the empty can of coke on the table. “Why are you on coke?”, questions the wife in a betrayed manner. Before I could figure out what’s happening, the hubby gets all embarrased and mumbles some sort of explanation. Realizing the guest of honor is on the table tonight, she quickly turns to me, breaks a smile, and gently shakes her head. “He’s not supposed to drink coke, you know. We are trying to have a baby. Coke is no good for the baby, very unhealthy.” Wow, it’s good to know that I’m not the only one trying to be healthy these days. Should I skip the oil? #opera #sichuan #china #hotpot #TheThreeKingdoms #travel #perspective #life #damiao #jinlistreet #chengdu

Chengdu, July 13, 2014 Qu pulls over at the street car park beside Wuhou temple, one of the must-see destination for any tourist in Chengdu. This is the historical site where the Three Brothers Liu Bei, Guan Yu, and Zhang Fei have come together to start their revolutionary war during the time of the Three Kingdoms period in ancient Chinese history. Having read the story and having enjoyed the 2010 released movie titled “The Three Kingdoms”, I get all excited to finally set my foot down on this remarkable land of history. It’s 5:30PM and the temple is closed. Before I could express my extreme disappointment, the locals spot an announcement for a night visit session starting from 7PM. Oh well, that would give me some time to stroll around Jinli street shops for some local souvenirs. We return at 7 though I am not sure how I could enjoy the beauty of this temple in the moody night lights. I soon find out, however, that the key to this temple are simply statues of the Three Brothers together with some of Liu Bei’s most outstanding generals and marquis. Visual of the blossom garden where the Three Brothers share their oath for life and death is no where to be found. Isn’t that the most important if this temple gets built upon the garden of history? Oh well, should I be so passionate about Chinese history in the first place? Surprisingly, the locals are here for the first time as well and like me, they are finding out what the temple is all about. Though it’s not the most exciting destination even for a history lover such as myself, we all learn something new today. Liu Bei’s most important marquis, Zhu Ge Liang, the pride of China’s intelligence and knowledge, has spent his last days here in this temple before calling Xi’an his forever resting place. We walk out of the temple in silence, each seemingly chasing own thoughts. My mind is placed within nothingness. Yes there is a temple here, but history somehow does not seem to reside in this wooden structure. None of us can touch its soul. None of us can feel immersed in the glory of the great golden era. Maybe it’s time for some Chinese to start searching for the hidden heart, even if it requires the help of a captain Jack Sparrow…. The exit alley is nicely lit by Chinese opera light masks. Out we walk in silence until Steven suddenly asks me if I could recite a Chinese poem. Before my mind could do a quick U-turn, Steven looks at my blank face and starts the first verse: “The moon light touches my bed” That’s a famous poem written by Li Bai, one of the most renowned poets of the Tang Dynasty in ancient Chinese history. Ok now I’m back. “Looking like frost layering the ground Heading up, one views the bright moon light Heading down, one longs for his hometown” I finish up the poem in everyone’s surprise. Though the cherry blossom garden is no where to be found here in Chengdu, it is always there, forever in my heart…. #zhugeliang #zhangfei #chineseopera #sichuanopera #sichuan #libai #china #wuhoutemple #liubei #guanyu #threekingdoms #chengdu

“Xoẹt!” Những dòng máu đỏ tươi bắn loạn xạ. Con kia ngã gục, giãy đành đạch vài cái rồi nằm sóng xoài trên vỉa hè. Chiều nay ắt sẽ có một chầu “gà nòi hầm xả”. Cồ cất tiếng gáy vang vang. đã mấy năm nay nó vang danh sừng sỏ trong cái xóm gà chuyên nghiệp này. Bao nhiêu tên đàn anh, đàn em khắp mọi miền đều bị hắn oánh cho ngã ngửa, kẻ thì chết tươi, kẻ thì ôm đầu máu chạy có cờ, tên thì phải tàn tật suốt đời. Chủ của Cồ vì thế mà cũng vô cùng hãnh diện. Tiền thắng bạc lần nào Cồ cũng được hưởng sái, nào là bồi bổ, nào là lồng đẹp, nào là cựa mới. Oách thế đấy! Sức mạnh, tài năng, mưu mô, chiến thuật của nó đã khiến cho cả cái xóm này phải tâm phục khẩu phục. Vinh hoa phú quý thôi thì khỏi phải bàn. Sau mỗi trận đá tơi bời, cái mào của Cồ lại đỏ thêm một chút. Màu đỏ của chiến thắng. Màu đỏ của vinh quang. Màu đỏ của sự ngạo mạn…. Một ngày tháng 5 đầu hạ, trời oi oi bức bức, Cồ lại lên đường. Lại một tên nữa sắp tiêu đời. Chẳng mấy khi Cồ quan tâm đến những kẻ chiến bại ấy. Chúng vốn sinh ra là để chiến bại mà. Cồ ngạo nghễ bước ra. “Ôi trời! Lại một thắng ốm tong teo. Trông hắn cũng lì đòn ra phết nhưng cái vẻ bỡ ngỡ ấy chắc là mới ra sân lần đầu. Thôi thì đánh đòn truyền thống vậy. Chẳng cần phải suy nghĩ chi cho mệt.” Cồ điệu đàng sấn tới. “Xoẹt!” Trời đất bỗng chao đảo. Vỉa hè trưa nay sao lạnh quá…. Nó nằm sóng xoài trên mặt đất, chỉ kịp thoáng nghe một ai đó bình luận, “Em này là chiến binh vũ trụ mô đen mới đấy! Ra trận đầu mà đã nốc ao nhà vô địch.” Cồ nằm đó đơn độc, không một người thân, không một giọt nước mắt. Có chăng là vài ánh mắt ái ngại cho cái thân phận đáng thương của một kẻ đã từng nếm mùi chiến thắng. Chiều nay, chắc cái đám bạn nhậu của ông chủ lại có một độ “gà nòi hầm xả”. Khi những giọt nước mắt cuối cùng của Cồ khẽ chạm vào những hạt cát mong manh, nó mới hiểu ra rằng cuộc đời vốn vô thường đến thế…. #chiếnthắng #triếtlý #vôthường #thấtbại #cuộcsống

Suzhou, July 6, 2013 After a high-cholesterol dinner in Nanjing, we set off the next morning for a drive towards Suzhou. Loaded with more cholesterol over the local breakfast of more pig jelly, pig inners and a huge bowl of noodle, it was kinda hard to keep oneself awake in the stormy weather as we hit the highway. There is not much to keep one entertained on a highway in any country, so my attention turns to the billboards alongside the road. It is amazing how much billboards can tell you about a country, especially about the consumption habits of the locals. They could also give you an idea of who the aggressive advertisers are and whether they know how to use their advertising dollars. I’ve seen the same boring ad line up on both sides of a walkway every 1 meter in China and never seem to figure out how that helps. Maybe there is more RMBs in the budgets here than one could ever handle! What do I learn about China on the way to Suzhou then? Without coincidence, billboards after billboards on both sides of the highway, one could not see anything else except horizontal ads of Chinese wine and liquor. And they all take the same approach. Product is always the hero, so a huge image of the bottle, a tagline that normally has something to do with the long Chinese heritage of thousands of years, spiced up by the name of the manufacturer’s and voilà, one is all set to go. I have to admit though, that the packaging of these wine and liquor products are quite diverse and attractive, from ancient Chinese looking ceramics to modern European looking glass bottles of all shapes and sizes. I turn to my local friend and ask, “Why do you think there are nothing else but liquor ads along the road?”. Without a second of hesitation, Yibin responds, “Because of the liquor culture in China. Gifting means liquor. Getting together means liquor. Festivals mean liquor. Holiday means liquor.” Upon memories of all my encounters in China, in actual fact, all do involve liquor consumption at various extents. Glasses are raised once again as we reach Suzhou for a local lunch. Here’s to all the livers in China! #nanjing #chineseheritage #culture #china #lifeperspective #suzhou #billboards #liquor